Oysters

Oysters were an important addition to the diet of our ancestors and restrictions on their cultivation and sale in the southern ports go back to medieval times. In 1506 a document of the Manor of Earthen, which was part of the great Trelowarren Estate, reserves the right to the best fish and shellfish to the Lord of the Manor. By the mid-seventeenth century the Vyvyan family had rights to the whole river from the Maen Broth Rock to Gweek Bridge.

In 1659, Sir Richard Vyvyan took action against John Mayn for fishing without paying dues. By 1829 the fishing rights on the upper part of the river, owned by the Vyvyans, was let to John Tyacke and a condition of the lease was that one hundred best oysters were to be delivered to Trelowarren House each Tuesday and Friday throughout the year.

Prosecutions followed any poaching. For many years the depot for the oyster fishing was at Pond House in Polwheveral Creek. In the 1890s the Tyackes appointed Mr. Leonard Hodges’ grandfather and later his father, as their oyster bailiff.

By 1906 oysters were being landed at Port Navas and in 1910 a syndicate calling themselves the ‘Original Helford Oysterage and Fishing Company’ took over the lease. In 1948 the Duchy Oyster Farm was built beside the lower quay in Port Navas for packing and cleaning oysters. The lease was taken by Macfisheries Ltd and Leonard Hodges’ father became manager, to be followed by his son. In due course Leonard himself acquired the lease and the business was subsequently run for many years by his son Lindsay.

In 2005 a new chapter began when the Oyster Farm was aquired by Wright Brothers, a successful oyster distributor. Since then Ben Wright has set about reviving the business and re-establishing the oyster beds in the river. There is now every sign that the Helford oyster may soon regain its position as the nation's favourite.